09 March, 2013

Old vs new: Tong lau or not tong lau

Living in Hong Kong, we all know how difficult it is to rent an apartment with a reasonable sized living room, a bedroom that you can fit more than a double bed in (if you can even fit that), a shower that fits your six foot tall boyfriend and a kitchen where you can swing a cat. 

And if you can find an apartment with such delights, it probably costs the same as your monthly salary, rent or mortgage.


// In fact, like usual, HK Mag somehow nearly stole my idea for this post. Luckily, they opted to give you some great ideas on how to manage a small space (whereas I'm trying to figure out how to manage a small budget). //

The issue with all of this, is that in Hong Kong, prices will always go up, unless something happens due to force majeure – an act of God, like SARS.

Yes, the government recently made a pretty rubbish effort at blocking out 'foreign' investment, which was driving up prices (READ: Mainlanders paying cash to willing buyers, even for modest apartments in Tin Hau, and then leaving them empty because they don't even need the income from a renter). The problem with that was it somewhat cruelly punished any expats waiting seven years for their permanent residency (PR).

So how can you get around that? With the mortgage interest rates set so low, thanks to the US, many who bought previously have been living quite comfortably, even renting out apartments for almost double their mortgage repayments. But for those that haven't yet bought, why don't you?

Oh yes, because the property prices are ridiculously high and never come down.

I've heard that recently, property agents have seen a reduction in the number of transactions around the Sheung Wan area – so I could presume that the same is the case elsewhere. Another friend is selling his gorgeous and spacious apartment in Midlevels for below the bank valuation amount (this is the amount you can get a mortgage for – though each bank can vary in its valuation). He hasn't had much interest. But the mortgage advisor at the bank told me that while there is no movement, the behaviour in the market is like there's not enough apartments to pick from, so the market remains high.

Meanwhile, I want to buy an apartment in my beloved neighbourhood of seven years, Sai Ying Pun. For several reasons, it's only recently that I've been able to think about buying an apartment. But now, prices in Sai Ying Pun have soared because the MTR will open here next year. Actually, prices have been steadily rising since the announcement several years ago.

My old apartment block, Connaught Gardens (高樂花園) is really popular in this area, it has clear views and rises high above the noise, with some apartments overlooking the harbour. When I first lived there seven years ago, it was around HKD 2.2 million to buy an apartment no bigger than 450 square foot. But now, it's about HKD 4.8 million.



So what do you do, especially if you work from home like me and need a little more room (after all, if you're paying rent or a mortgage, why pay extra for an office space somewhere else, when you can work from home?).

Usually, a tong lau (唐樓), or Chinese building is an option. Chinese buildings are those without elevators, sometimes also without running gas (but the gas tank delivery system here is really efficient). For renters at least, these are usually a bit cheaper and bit larger, with better efficiency gained from not giving so much space to one or more elevator shafts.

But now days, particularly in areas slated for urban renewal, those apartments are even more expensive. Why? Because the owners want to be able to claim a higher amount when the Urban Renewal Authority (URA) or a developer come knocking. My rent went up every year, over 30% in two years, despite that our two-year lease system implies that you can have two years at the same rate. (This is usually handled with "my son is coming back and needs to move in there." Followed by, "whatever, how much more rent do you want?").



Ok, so back to my original argument – what about buying?

Well, it all works differently with a tong lau. For starters, around here, they are currently around HKD 5 million in my neighbourhood – more expensive than some new builds (which are admittedly a bit smaller) in this neighbourhood. But the bank valuation is usually more what you'd expect for a tong lau: HKD 2-2.5 million.

It means you can only get a mortgage for that value, if the bank even offers mortgages on tong lau. And, for a tong lau, you have to pay 50% deposit. Yes, funds you have, not fund you borrow from the bank. And, the bank will only mortgage you a set percentage, like 70%, of their valuation. And only over a period of up to 20 years.

Here's another snag: Many of them come with tenants already inside. If you take a mortgage under that situation, you also have a whole set of different rules. As a first time PR buyer, you can't apply for additional funding towards your deposit if the apartment has a tenant. And you can't have the same kind of mortgage deal – you have to repay more.

Confused yet? I am.

It seems strange to be unable to buy an apartment in the area that was your home for so long. The area where somehow you can afford to rent but not to buy. Do I want to live further out? Not really, not yet. I'm not a fan of Kennedy Town and I don't think their future MTR will change that.

The block I live on is currently a building site. Most of the neighbourhood is – but my block is about 70% building site. Yet I still want to stay because that's how much I like it here. Move to Kennedy Town and I'm only setting myself up for several more years of dealing with noisy building sites. Did I mention I work from home?

Hong Kong is home but the government have more than failed on Donald Tsang's promise to make it affordable for up to 90% of the population to own an apartment within this decade. It's hard to see how this can change in Hong Kong.




























Sometimes friends say that it's wasteful to buy in Hong Kong. Even the friend selling an apartment in Midlevels admits that it's overpriced for what it is. And yes, it's a very certain culture to believe in buying property – very English, very American, not so Euro. But my answer is thus: In Hong Kong, rents will only go up. So why not buy?

(And there we go, back to the beginning of this post).

23 February, 2013

Asia Hotel Art Fair 2013, Mandarin Oriental

An invitation to the Asia Hotel Art Fair (AHAF) press opening is hard to resist – a look at some interesting art and a snoop around the Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong, checking out various room types? Two of my favourite things in one, couldn't get better.

That said, I didn't expect much from this event, not having been before. Over the years I have come to love ARTHK and seen it improve and become more dynamic in terms of what's shown.

But I was wrong, the AHAF was not boring at all. Showcasing a range of galleries including some smaller independent Hong Kong galleries like Above Second and Voxfire, as well as an awesome range of contemporary Korean art and jewellery. I've interviewed quite a few Korean artists now, and they really are a creative bunch.


























The AHAF has been held since 2008, in various hotels across Tokyo, Hong Kong and Seoul. While it's supposed to help visitors imagine their work at home, I saw property developers walking around trying to fill their new buildings for Tokyo and a number of VIPs.


But one thing that's undeniable is the price range. Not everything is too expensive for the average person. I nearly fell into buying a piece by Korean artists Park Tea-who. So it's worth visiting if you want to adorn your home – more affordable than ARTHK by far.

Korean artists 
Ahn Jun is a highly popular Korean artist, who takes photos of herself on the edge of buildings, including the one where she lives. Here, you can see the Shun Tak center in Sheung Wan.






































Bae Chan-hyo is another popular Korean artist. His self-portraits remind me of Yinka Shonibare's self portraits like Dairy of a Victorian Dandy.






























I was pleased to find a bit of Korean whimsy by way of illustration, care of Kim So-hee.






































But this is the artist who stole my heart, through our shared love of birds. Park Tea-who represented by Nine Gallery on the 4th floor (room 423).






































Korean jewellery was a real treat – inspiring, attractive and well-made. Check out room 612 and look here at .






























I want a dog too. But the ring by Shin Moonyoung will do and I presume it's less maintenance..






































They have ceramics too...





























And some interesting things to boot.































































Hong Kong artists 
One of the reasons I wanted to go to the fair was to visit Hong Kong galleries like Above Second, who were representing Federico Fiorentini, who I love...





























and Voxfire, who recently had an exhibition featuring my friends Danny Kostianos and Shann Larrson, who is featured in the photo below:






































To see my tweets from this event, look here.


17 February, 2013

Driving in snow

***This blog entry is based on my experience and for guidance only. I cannot be held responsible for the actions of others. If you disagree with the below, please leave a comment.

Living in the warm and comfortable temperatures of Southeast Asia, we’re not used to driving in snow. But while some of us regularly visit the US and Europe, others of us might also visit colder Asian countries like Japan. And snow did fall in Hong Kong in 1975 (ok, only on the mountain tops, but still).

It’s useful to know how to handle snow, especially for those either out of practice or who are virgins to driving on freshly laid snow.

































// These tips are for those driving normal, manual cars. If you have snow chains, then you shouldn’t have any major problems, but always watch out for other drivers who might be less practiced or confident at driving in snowy conditions. //

Before you drive
You should fully defrost your car, before setting out. With a scraper (which you should always keep in your car) remove as much of the snow as you can before driving – wind-blown snow coming from your vehicle creates a cloud of snow, which reduces visibility for those behind you. Use the defroster on your rear window to help along with the internal AC system.

Make sure that all of your windscreen wipers have mobility. Use de-icing spray if you need to. It’s also a good idea to make sure that all of your lights are in full working order and that your license plate is visible.

**It is always advisable to keep a warm blanket inside the car (not the boot) when driving in wintry conditions in case you become stranded.

**Prepare to take longer than usual to get to your destination and don’t rush.

Starting out
When driving in snow, you should never use first gear. To start out, use the clutch and gas pedal to hit the bite point in second gear.

Do not over-rev. This will cause your wheels to spin on the spot, either creating a slushy base or a smooth pad beneath your tyres. If you do get stuck like this (even after you’re started out) don’t hit the brakes hard or you might skid. Try to steer gently to fresher snow or a snow-free area of road. Allow the engine to naturally slow.

While driving
Remember that beneath the snow there can be a surface of ice.

**Black ice is another hazard. It is not usually visible, which is what makes it just so dangerous.

Never drive too fast and watch how the cars around you are behaving. This can be an early warning for icy patches. On top, you can never rely for the safety or skill of those around you.

In general, try to drive in the path of those in front of you if it doesn’t appear to have become icy. Note that as the sun goes down, those slushy patches easily become icy so take note of the weather, sun and time of day.

While slush can seem like a safer path, remember that it also hides ice. Driving on slush is also different to driving in simply wet conditions, so remain careful until you reach roads which are well-thawed and only wet.

Hills and slopes
It can be difficult to go up or down hill in snow. While you might assume that upwards would be awkward, downhill is actually more challenging especially if there are cars in front of you, because in slippery conditions, the last thing you should do is hit the brakes or push down the clutch.

When moving downhill, if you need to slow, allow the engine to naturally rev down by removing your foot from the gas. Steering over fresher snow (as long as it’s not too deep) will also help to give traction and create a friction to slow you. Move down to second gear if you can.

Should you think that a crash is possible, try to steer towards the curb (assuming you are not moving too fast and there are no pedestrians walking by or trees to hit head-on). If you are at a safe low speed and only skidding, the curb will help to slow you.

Braking
If you do need to brake in the snow, remember that you could skid. Press on the brake gently and allow the car to slow. Then, release the brake and reapply. Don’t hit the brakes with sudden force and don’t push down the clutch until you are nearing a stop because a sudden force on the brakes with the clutch down is more than likely to let you skid.

Skidding
If you do skid, particularly while braking, then remove your foot from the brakes. Check that you have not automatically pushed down the clutch. If possible, move to a lower gear – if engaging the clutch won’t make you skid more.

Don’t try to steer the car, this will encourage the wheels to spin on the spot, which is why you are skidding. As above, press on the brakes lightly and at short intervals to allow the car to slow.

Aftercare 
Once you have reached your destination, try to store the vehicle in a covered area or garage.

Remember that countries susceptible to ice and snow tend to grit roads, using salt among other things. Salt and water will quickly irritate the metals on the underside of your car, causing rust spots, so it’s advisable to regularly wash your car in a proper car wash during the winter months.

Travel safe and take care! Chantown

08 February, 2013

We Just Clicked – online dating in Hong Kong

Dating is never easy, even for the best of us. In Hong Kong, it somehow seems harder and I don't think it's just because of the population mis-balance – we currently have the worst on record in Hong Kong, with official figures reporting only 876 men to every 1000 women.

Here's a story I wrote for SCMP.


16 September, 2012

Switch Off and Listen

I love music. All kinds. The scene in Hong Kong has changed a lot over the last six or so years, but despite it getting generally better, I still take my hat off to those who get up there and perform, no matter how great the crowd. No matter how great the talent. Hey, sometimes I'm one of those people.

Joshua Thomson is a British artist who has come to Hong Kong and set up an Avante-Garde vinyl-only record label, which plans to also publish limited edition themed newspapers. Sounds like my cup of tea.

Follow him @platinummetres