Chongqing eats and experiences

Having been to Bei Bei district, north of Chongqing, to review the latest Banyan Tree hotel, (we’re talking misty mountains, hot tubs, tall bamboo and a thousand year-old Buddhist temple) I was kindly chauffeured to the city of Chongqing.

I have no expectations after Googling travel ideas for the city, which pretty much lead me nowhere (no, I don’t want 364 ideas from Trip Advisor and I don’t want to head 50-100km out of the city again to see things like the town of statues of underworld gods or visit Foreigner City).

The city is huge, the traffic is so-so. It’s warmer here but the air is quite gross and I almost think we in HK should stop complaining. Then I catch myself and remember that we can always have better air, so we should complain and act. But this is China and the air isn’t bad for a big city like this.

// Something I like about visiting China (not Lo Wu) is that it reminds me that Mainlanders are nice. In HK it’s so easy to get into the habit of finding them ma fan, being rude, but that’s just a portion of the section of society who visit HK.

And whose fault is it that we don’t really have the infrastructure to cope with so many tourists crossing the border every day? Not theirs, they don’t make the rules. I realise this is a bit controversial but I want to say it. I easily get into the habit of ‘oh I HATE them!’ so I come here to recall what their history was and what their culture is, to be patient, instead of feeling harassed as I rush about my city, in my busy daily schedule.

So, that means, I accept the spitting and the talking shouting and the pushing in the elevator. Because there’s so much nice and awe-inspiring and quirky. And they actually stop at the red pedestrian light when there’s no traffic coming, which just blows my mind. //

I choose a more budget hotel, staying in a decent spot frequented by lots of local Mainlanders. I’m still in the area where all of the international hotels are, like the Intercontinental, Marriot etc so there’s lots to do, with Chongqing locals, Mainland tourists and international tourists around.

That said, I laugh out loud (really) when I see the Dairy Queen and Starbucks right next to my hotel, but there are also local fruit sellers squatting right outside the hotel, so I feel gratified.

It’s no joke that Chongqing is famous for hotpot – a short stroll down the road shows me that pretty much every other shop is a hotpot restaurant, mixed amongst more local cha chan teng (茶餐廳) that serve the popular xiao mien (not because the noodle or dish is small but because there’s not many different ingredients in it) along with ma lat tong meen (麻辣湯麵) and other regional dishes.

I’m staying by Hongya Cave, and soon realise that my hotel room is almost underground – that is, we’re on a cliff face and I’m facing the rock, not the river. But I didn’t book this place for lounging in.

After checking out a local shop to eat xiao mien (yummy, not spicy, containing choi (greens) preserved mui choi and meat which I didn’t eat) I pass through a local mall. Not much interesting for me, especially since the brands are either present in HK or too local to be my style (bright is ok, fru-fru is not). So, off I head to the Hongya cave, which my friends at Banyan Tree kept telling me about.

It’s pretty much what I want: Tons of fresh made local goodies like peanut candy, date candy, Chinese cookies, peanuts, chili products and so on as well as lots of local food stores that sell all kinds of local dishes, all of which I want to try (except the meat).

I’ve now picked out my breakfast of shun lat mai meen (酸辣米麵), lunch (more ma lat tong meen), sides (cold eggplant) (茄子) and dessert (any kind of local style tong yuen (湯圆) all of which I will have to consumer before I leave at 2.30pm. Oh and I also ate my second dinner in the form of dan dan meen, which was ridiculously good and might mean I never eat it in HK ever again.

// One warning: These small local eateries are cheap and yummy (5-15RMB per bowl of noodles), but there’s a ridiculous amount of MSG in the food. I know that’s what it is because there’s a half aisle dedicated to MSG at the supermarket and later, I find myself drinking litres of water  – with a slight MSG headache, which believe it or not, never happens to me in HK //

I also find a sweet shop on the ‘traditional folk shop’ floor CHECK of the cave, where they make Chinese name chops. As a painter LINK I like to collect these in different shapes and sizes. I’m even more excited that they have chops made of clay, which I’ve never seen before. It’s cheaper than HK and the skilled man is offering a range of styles, so I’m all in. As a pottery fan, I’m really excited by this. Call me a geek, I don’t care.

People here are friendly and will chat with you, even if you can’t understand. I’m pretty relieved that some bits of Cantonese are useful and I'm very proud of my highly limited and crap Mandarin (I’ve had 12 classes in my life) as well as what I hotchpotch together by trying to figure out bits of simplified Chinese (give me details any day, I’m a purist, let’s be traditional with the written, ok?).

At the chop shop, the owner’s daughter who’s about eight talks and talks to me; I finally get her to speak a bit of Cantonese (she can, a bit) and we connect. I tell her and her mum I’m mixed raced and later, other Chinese customers chat with me saying that Hong Kong people have nice names and take pictures of me.

I haven’t seen much in my 20 hours here, but I like this city and I’d recommend it for a fast weekend food break, just when you know, Thailand is irresistible (like that ever happens).

Brussel me up: Sprouts with everthing

A recent trip to the US made me recall my deep love for the brussel sprouts. 

That tasty, mini brassica, which fell prey to badly cooked school dinners in the '80s, wreaking hate across a nation.

Despite the bad rap they have among Brits/ school kids, they are a classic British vegetable (if you're British. If you're American and thinking "hey, that's my brassica!" then fine, I deny you not). They have a somewhat Christmassy connotation in the UK but in Hong Kong, they're popular and you can get them year round.

I love them. I somehow escaped primary school unscathed by bad brussel sprouts and don't recall eating them in secondary school. I am, however, mostly vegetarian, in part, due to the horrors of eating meat at school. 

But in the US, it's like they love sprouts with their cooking, not their mouths. You can find sprouts in all kinds of restaurants, in interesting combinations and typically, damn well made. The trip most definitely ignited in me, a little obsession, trying to recreate the lovingly cooked dishes, so I could love them with my mouth at home.

// Dammit, I don't have any in at the moment, so I can't, now, go and eat some, having ranted on about how great they are. //

The Smith, NYC

In this popular chain of bars, brussel sprouts are carefully loved in a hot pan, with oil and salt. They come out a bright green, so have not been overcooked, despite that the outsides are wonderfully burnt brown and black, creating spots of crispiness and caramel. They are a tad oily, but the salt and sprout flavours just eat you up in a bundle of brassica joy.

Just USD 8

Motorino, NYC

Motorino is known to be (one of) the best pizza place(s) in New York. And with a menu that includes brussel sprouts, who's surprised? (School kids, that's who). This bianco pizza is compiled of the standard Motorino dough – that's thin in the middle and chewy on the crust – topped with Perorino and brussel sprouts. And if you eat meat, smoked pancetta too. I have to admit that I've only eaten it without the meat (but would happily eat one or two small chunks of pancetta but perhaps not much more). One friend told me she was disgusted by this pizza, but I love it. 

Oh yes, NYC. It's just doesn't quite taste the same in Hong Kong.

USD 16

Mercaditos, NYC

There are many cool things about this Mexican eatery, tucked away on Avenue B, not to mention the three guacamoles they have on the menu. Yes. Three. But it's the brussel sprouts that really surprised me. Brussel sprouts? I hear you ask. In a Mexican joint? I hear you ask. Yes my sweets, brussel sprouts in a Mexican joint! These little puppies are served with pork belly in a yummy tomato sauce that is basically a cooked, thickened salsa. Apparently it comes with tortilla, but all I recall is the creamy sprouts.

Just USD 5.50

*Too dark for a decent pic

Nick's Cove, Sonoma

Tucked away in Marshall County, Sonoma, Nick's Cove is a warm and woody affair. It's quaint and homely, with a water's edge deck and view of sunset. 

The menu changes every day but always consists of fantastically fresh food, with a sophisticated-twist-on-an-old-favourite kind of charm. I mean, like the crab mac'n'cheese that I had, the taste of which still lingers on my tongue. The sprouts come with pancetta, of course. And what tasty morsels they were. 

If I haven't yet got you, then go, now my dear, go and eat brussel sprouts. For they are good and green and strong.

Montreal: The place to eat

Jadeite In all honesty, it took me some time to post this (back-dated) piece. But there was no way I couldn't share my tasty experiences with you! 

The food was amazing, some of it cooked by my host, Chow with Chow.

Living in Hong Kong, markets like Jean-Talon (Marché Jean-Talon) in the heart of Montreal just make me drool. And even if some things seem kind of expensive, it’s just full of delicious product that I want to take home and… cook. Surrounding the fresh produce are a few stalls selling pre-made goods, including the best sea-salt caramel macaron I have ever eaten and some interesting looking polish pastries.

There are also a few shops selling all things Maple, but I was told by my good host that those products can also be found cheaper, elsewhere. Which was a good thing, because I could not resist the vintage style packaging, which I secretly wanted to take home to use as a pen-holder or something.

A short walk south from the market is little Italy. You know what that means? Cannolis. That’s what it means. I have this constant hankering for a good churro and while I know these two things cannot be compared, how can you say no to a good cannoli?

Try Alarti-Caserta at 277 Dante, Little Italy. Luckily for me, they have small and large sizes (this was a long trip, at some point I had to think about my heart, if not my waistline). I also wanted to try their sfogliatelle, which was what I was given the last time I tried to order a cannoli in Sheffield, UK (I know, what did I expect? It was yummy though).

But among the pastries and some of the most extravagant cakes I have ever seen, were other yummy things that I didn’t get to try (heart, waistline, remember?), like this nutty tart. Mmmm. I will have to go back to Montreal sometime.

And after that, full as I felt (ssshhh, I ate other things before we got to Alarti Caserta) we walked through Mile End, looked, tried on and walked south more to the Plateau where I fell in love with a home-ware store called V de V Maison.

But we had to walk more, because I know that Montreal bagels are good. ChowwithChow had brought them to me in HK before. They were calling me. I wanted to try one of those, fresh.

In case you’re not familiar or lucky enough to have friends in Montreal, their bagels are different and known for being really good – some people actually don’t want to eat a New York bagel, because hey, it’s just not their style. These little puppies are boiled in sweetened water and then baked in a wood fire oven. Sounds complicated, doesn’t it? That’s why it’s best to eat them fresh and from a place that only does bagels.

// There is more to it, but I’ll let wikipedia explain that.) //

So, we took our route past coffee shops and shoe shops and hairdressers (she needed to trim her bangs) and I ‘found’ myself by FairmountBagel (because I cried “what about the bagel?” Even Chow had eaten enough by then).

Located at 74 Fairmount West, these guys have been making bagels since 1919 and my taste buds told me that experience was worth it, even if my tummy wasn’t in the mood for stretching exercises.

The only thing I missed was the Marmite. But hey, this lox was ridiculously good too.

I still had more places to go on my trip, so sadly I didn’t bring bagels home, but I did head to a supermarket one Mont Royale Avenue (av. du Mont-Royal) to get less perishable goods. And oops! We passed by La Maison du Macaron, which I was told is one of the best in the city.

The lovely Chow bought me a box of the printemps-été 2013 collection: Mango and black pepper, strawberry and rhubarb, raspberry and lime, strawberry and basil and of course, I tried their sea salt caramel too. I’m obsessed with caramel. I’m obsessed with salty & sweet. So what can I say? This was a trip of flavour combinations (check out the pops at The Hyppo in St Augustine ).

Oh, and at the supermarket I picked up some cheese and a jar of Dulce de Leche (for some reason, it’s a regular staple in Canadian supermarkets), which I’ve been saving up for making some Argentinian alfajores, now the weather is cooler in HK. I’m going to add some pink Himalayan sea salt to mine, along with that coconut rim. (Warning: there are lots of bad recipes for these on the Internet…)

Kisses cupcakes, Wan Chai

Me love cupcake. So I couldn't resist trying one from Kisses cupcakes when I discovered it on Saturday. Despite the fact that I just got back from a month in the USA. (So much cake).

But upon looking through the window at the product, I realised that these cupcakes are shallow – and less filling – but with a fair helping of frosting neatly whipped around the top. A decent ratio to indulge a frosting freak like me.

With choices like mint choc chip, red velvet, cookies n cream, green tea, (I could go on for a while) it was hard to decide on my final prey. But I felt like something light (after a month in the US) and chose lemon. I like lemon desserts, they're usually pretty tasty.

The cake part was lightly lemony, fluffy and not too sweet. It wasn't oily and tasted natural, unlike many store-bought muffins. Despite my love of frosting, I was a bit overwhelmed by this one. The frosting wasn't a buttercream with a sweet twist of lemon, as I'd expected, but a base of fresh whipped cream and not-too-sweet lemon. For me, that was far richer than a butter cream and took the enjoyment out of the cake.

All said and done, especially for Hong Kong, I thought the balance of texture and flavour was commendable.

Kisses is sweet, reasonably priced at $25 and up and I plan to visit again. There's a red velvet I haven't got to yet.

The way to art it – writing about art, the Chantown way.

As someone who studied both history of art and fine art, I usually approach exhibitions with a few thoughts in mind – technique,  understanding and aesthetics. I want to learn but I also want to have an intelligent discourse about the visuals and concepts presented. I also want to indulge in artistic greatness. After all, as a writer, I have easier – and more – access to famous and accomplished artists than I ever had as an artist no longer at university.

But I live in Hong Kong and I run my own business. So, like most people here, I find it hard to do everything. Sometimes I can't get to all the press events I'm invited to. 

Other times, I go, but don't have time talk to the artists (or they don't have time to talk to me) or i just don't have time to write something proper and interesting. I don't even have time to copyright stamp my images. This blogging lark isn't all roses you know.

There's something else too. Since moving to Hong Kong, I've become more disillusioned with the art world because I live in close proximity to 'for profit' galleries and their clientele. And I no longer live in a country where the government supports and encourages artistic activities and appreciation of the arts. As an artist I've never been so aware that it's all about luck. There are few places for an emerging artist like me to show, especially where I won't be paying high rents with no hope of sales (even at 50% commission).

So I've decided to remedy my blog block problem by writing short snippets from the art shows I do attend. Inspired by the style of this highly popular no-holds-barred food blogger, you can expect honesty (and fewer expletives). These bites make no promise over what will be covered but they will provide personal insights or technical information in a truly digestible, Hong Kong sized format.

These insightful snapshots of my artistic observances, or Chantown Art Critique Critter, will also be tagged with 'Art Critter'. 

I Call You Nancy – Tang Kwok Hin @ Mandarin Oriental

The Mandarin Oriental is the official hotel sponsor of the Hong Kong Art Fair this year. As such, not only is there a range of interesting food menus throughout the hotel, but in partnership with Contemporary by Amelia Johnson, the Clipper Lounge is also host to a specially commissioned exhibition, I Call You Nancy, by upcoming Hong Kong artist, Tang Kwok Hin.

Tang’s work is inspired by Hong Kong, creating an unmistakably nostalgic flavour, which locates the audience exactly where Tang needs them to be in order to feel what he feels. I Call You Nancy is based around Tang's made-up stories about a real sister that his mother never gave birth to, due to China's One Child Policy. While the subject matter appears to be sad, Tang masters an uplifting feeling of sensitivity, wonder and hope.

Liking the idea that by searching on Google, he could find the same images from any IP address in the world, Tang found images online to create fake memories and keepsakes about Nancy. "I liked the idea of taking public images and making a private album," he explains.

The first step in the journey is a frame full of images of 'Nancy' – but in all the images, the face is hidden or blurred. Who is Nancy? Walking through the exhibition, the audience begins to feel who she is. "I imagined she loves music, so I created these albums for her," he says. Framed in card, four sheets of glass represent a vinyl record. Images are layered in-between different layers, creating different depths and a range of blurs and illusions. Giraffes reach for the trees, leaves branch down and spacemen on ladders stretch for fruit they can't reach. The 'album' is called Grapple-vity – a combination of gravity and apple. "I wanted it to be about reaching for the sky," he explains. Which, if anything, is surely about hopeful dreaming.

Other pieces in the exhibition include a video of Tang's mother leafing through a photograph album of Nancy. He originally wanted to present the album, but the location made it impractical. In many ways, the video is more poignant, creating the real experience of Nancy. His mother cried during the filming, he says.

A stamp collection showcases images that Nancy might like, including child-like fairy tale characters like Snow White. Later, a map of the world – the one that Nancy inhabits – sandwiches unrecognisable lands between glass. Strange place names are printed on multiple levels so it's not just unclear, it's dizzying.

In other pieces, find different kinds of houses found around the world. Or her journeys to work and school, her different jobs. As well as being a music-lover, Tang says he imagines Nancy left to study overseas but hasn't returned, that she is a little eccentric, so he can forgive her for not contacting them. In the pieces, Nancy is always there, hidden. Another piece shows a cabinet of keepsakes and ornaments that Nancy might own – including a photo of Tang as a boy. At the end, 24 nancies collide in one piece, showing her different characteristics in one complete piece, with the backdrop of a tree and placed between wood and glass. Nature and the family tree is so strong in this piece that it's organic.

Thanks to Tang, Nancy has a life and a world all of her own. Each piece ties together different recurring elements, giving continuity in this imaginary life. "Mum tells me she would have named you Hung-jin (紅嫣). Dad still talks of the daughter he never knew. Doing this work I thought about her a lot and I feel her."

Tang was raised – and still lives – in one of Hong Kong’s last remaining walled villages, Kam Tin. Aged 28, Tang was acclaimed as Young Artist of the Year by the Hong Kong Arts Development Council in 2010 and won first prize at the Hong Kong Contemporary Art Biennale in 2009. He was also selected as a finalist for the Asian Sovereign Art Prize in both 2010 and 2011 and for the international Arte Laguna Art Prize in Venice during 2011.

After looking at Tang's work, visitors can enjoy an ART afternoon tea (3pm–6pm, Monday–Saturday; 3:30pm–6pm, Sunday – until May 26th). Michelin Star chef, Uwe Opocensky, created special cakes, inspired by Tang's collaged work (and the chocolate matchbox ganache is wonderful).

Other Hong Kong Art Fair related posts:

• ARTHK 12
• Top ten tips for surviving the fair

Hong Kong Art Fair #ARTHK 2012

In it's fifth year, the Hong Kong Art Fair is as successful as ever. During 2011, Art Basel (or, the company behind it) bought a 60% stake in the fair, which according to Fair Director, Magnus Renfrew, "secures us as an advanced art fair. It's exciting. We worked hard to make this big and Art Basel guarantees that."

Here's a list of posts about ARTHK:

• Ten top tips for surviving the fair (no matter how much we love it)
• Afternoon tea with Tang Kwok Hin @ the Clipper Lounge, Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong (a special menu and exhibition for ARTHK12)

Top ten tips for surviving Hong Kong Art Fair

Hong Kong Art Fair opens doors to the public this Thursday (May 17th). Each year, the fair grows in size and impact. So here are some tips on making the most of your visit to #arthk.

1. A good scout always comes prepared.

Don't go with a hangover, get a good night's sleep and be in the mood for it. To get in the mood, browse any local paper or magazine for news of the fair, or tease yourself with an imaginary shopping list to fill your house on the Peak.

2. Love your feet – be comfortable.

There are lots of elegant and stylish flats around at the moment, so don't kill your feet for art's sake. If you have an event after, take heels with you. Scheduling a foot massage afterwards is perfect – and you can chat with your friend about which pieces you liked the most.

3. Timing is everything.

Try to avoid the crowds for a quieter experience and better viewing quality. Even at weekends, it's worth getting there for the midday opening as most people go after lunch. Give yourself a minimum of two hours if you want to see a handful of what's there. If you like to stop and stare, make it the bulk of your day.

If you go early, treat yourself afterwards to an ART afternoon tea at the Mandarin Oriental Clipper Lounge (3pm–6pm, Monday–Saturday; 3:30pm–6pm, Sunday). Local emerging artist Tang Kwok Hin's exhibition "I call you Nancy" is located around the room and inspired some of the delicious treats.

 

4. Hong Kongers drink enough bottled water a year to fill IFC. Hydrate.

A large room with UV lighting and air-con could dehydrate a camel. Take your own or buy there, but sip regularly. Typically, toilets are located and top and bottom ends of the hall. There's a map here.

5. A family af-fair

Kids are welcome at the fair so it can be a family day out. But the fair is huge. Allow toddlers to have a little run at aisle ends and take a stroller so they can fall asleep. Older kids might want to take part in activities or move on ahead/ hang back. Colour My World offer activities at the fair (details).

Have a fixed meeting point and/or in case you get separated – so everyone can enjoy the art at their own pace.

6. Wander freely... or plan ahead

Wonder freely or highlight artists and galleries you want to visit. But amazing as it is, art can satiate you, so don't force yourself to look at every piece if it will make you become blasé.

7. Come up for air

If you want to see it all, take your time and break in-between, or make two separate visits. There are various venders in the fair and other restaurants at HKCEC. Taking your own snacks would be forgiven. I vote for a brownie or cookie treat, along with good coffee. Sadly, VERO won't be returning this year – but the lounge is located close-by, at Fenwick Pier.

 

8. Shop 'til you drop.

If you're planning to buy and see something you like, don't expect to easily find the gallery space again. The fair is huge, so take a business card and note the exhibition space number as well as taking visual references. According to Fair Director, Magnus Renfrew, 40% of sales take place after the fair, so don't feel pressured to make a purchase on the spot.

9. Exit strategy.

Enough is enough and your body will tell you whether it wants to stay or not. But getting out of HKCEC can take a while if you head the wrong way (and their own floorplan isn't that helpful). Figure out if you're taking a taxi, MTR or walking and know in advance which exit you want. Expect long taxi queues at peak times, especially when the doors are closing.

10. Eat and drink 'til your heart's content.

 

After the fair, it might well be time to eat. If it's dinner time, the Mandarin Oriental are also serving an ART menu in the Grill + Bar. Michelin-starred chef Uwe Opocensky is serving dishes like Sculpture, Graffiti, Photography, Painting and Music – so your day can end with art. In fact, the dinner includes a ticket to the fair (execpt Sunday May 20th), so you could go there the night before... but see point 1.

On the other hand, if you just purchased an expensive piece of art and need a stiff drink, head straight to M Bar for an ART cocktail. Future is a whiskey sour with a molecular twist, Asia One has a yuzu twist with a dash of lychee and Art is champagne with fruity end.

Other Hong Kong Art Fair related posts:

• ARTHK 12
• Tang Kwok Hin's I Call You Nancy exhibition and afternoon tea at Clipper Lounge
• Top ten tips for surviving the fair