Yinka Shonibare: Dreaming Rich

Yinka Shonibare's first foray into the identity of Hong Kong.

Following the trend of so many famous artists doing their 'first solo in Asia', Yinka Shonibare opens Dreaming Rich tomorrow at Pearl Lam. The exhibition by the London-born Nigeria-raised artist includes works created specifically for – and about – Hong Kong.

Entering Pearl Lam, the exhibition is somewhat divided, into three parts. On the right, a slightly enclosed glass cube and on the left, the long room, divided in half by a long wall. Why divide the space like this? I wonder. 

Curator, David Chan, was trying to create an HK-like space and I suppose that an awkward division in a room, combined with the strange, long space is very Hong Kong. It also allowed for the hanging of a very long painting. 

Shonibare views his own works

An icon of Shonibare's work is the use of African textiles, those batik fabrics which seem to echo tribal art. As it turns out, this Indonesian process of dying was mimicked by the Dutch, with the aim of selling them back to Indonesia. But they weren't popular and so they sold them to West Africa. Now, they're so common that we call them African textiles.

In this, there's a notion of imposing culture onto a people – especially one that is likely poorer than you. But there's another link: Trade routes, something that Shonibare is interested in, along with history. We already know he relies on history for story-telling. Look at the amazing Victorian Dandy series.

The fabrics have become a motif in his work now, so in terms of semiology it means 'Shonibare' too. His work is so popular (he's an MBE after all; something he finds ironic) that he inspires contemporary fashion designers.

He questions what is truly African – this story of the fabrics and their origins proves that the diaspora as well as the modern world make it hard to find things that are singly and truly African. "We eat sushi then we go to school and speak English," he says. 

Champagne Kid (Swinging)

And he realises something about the modern mind. We're all influenced by where we've lived, not just where we're 'from' – 'from' being a notion that in itself is hard to perceive in Hong Kong sometimes. "At school, I was asked why I wasn't producing purely African art, but why would I?" He questions. 

In Dreaming Rich, it's the figures that are seen sporting these fabrics the most, although they are used in some paintings too. 

Cake Man is the biggest and most impressive of the globe heads, with the weight of the world cake on his shoulders. "All humans are greedy and we all like cake," Shonibare says. "'08 was a pure expression of greed and the rise of other economies in the world makes high-end brands more desirable." He has a point, China want it and little chavs in the UK want it too, as we saw during the UK riots.

"The gap between rich and poor is getting bigger and the rich want more. Cake Man symbolises this," Shonibare explains. The globe head shows the rise and fall of the stock market, on a graph. "He looks delicious and absolutely disgusting at the same time, he's burdened by too much cake." Shonibare reflects that anything you do too much, creates a burden. "It becomes a form of labour. See the contradictions?"

Penny for your thoughts 
In another series of works (Dreaming Rich drawings), Shonibare reflects on the truth about Hong Kong. Not only does he call out IFC as an erection (he's not the first person to complain about the phallic skyline) but he paid homeless people to tell him what they would do if they had loads of money. "They're real thoughts. I traded with them, I paid them for their thoughts, as homeless people here," he explains.

Something to play with
Hong Kong Toy Painting is another, created just for the show. They're playful but Shonibare says they are serious, too. 

Not only are toys and their industry iconic for Hong Kong, but Shonibare used only those made in Hong Kong that would be more reminiscent for local audiences. 

"We have enough not to want for homes and toys but not everyone is like that," he says, adding that he knows about the cage dwellings here. Will there be an uprising again? He asks. 

Shonibare's first solo in Hong Kong is showing at Pearl Lam (Pedder Building) until January 9th, 2014.

Giant rubber duck hits Hong Kong harbour

And makes it into my Giant Things album.
I'm lucky enough to know the Assistant General Manager of Marketing at Harbour City. So I knew that the famous Rubber Duck, by Dutch artist Florentijn Hofman was planning to sail into town and rock my boat.

In fact, so many people knew that my friend in the UK posted this:

and my dad posted this (in the mail of course, not online).

But, I was away when the great duck arrived, so I missed any opportunity to attend the press event and get first beak peak at my new web-footed friend.

Having missed the timeliness of this, I won't go too far in explaining it because everyone else has beaten me to it. The duck has visited several places like Sao Paulo, Auckland and Osaka. Now, it's in Hong Kong, where it was cutely pulled into place by a tug boat on May 2nd.

If you're a friend of mine, you'll know that I have a collection of over 130 snapshots of me, with different giant objects. And I don't mean big, I mean oversized. You know, like in a Claes Oldenburg kind of way. So that's why all the overseas notifications of what was happening here. I can't believe I missed my chance to be first in on such a GIANT thing!

Today, I finally got my chance – because Ducky had bird flu when I first came back... and was proudly reinflated during Art Basel week (intensely hectic), so I missed that too. Following a meeting in TST, I saw my chance and swooped in for a view (via the #5 bus from Chatham Road South).

I felt ridiculously happy at the sight of my giant inflatable friend. But after a quick photo and a look around, what to do?

That's when I met Dreamcatcher Jessie. She had set up a tripod and sign, saying she would take photographs of you with Rubber Duck, with her beautiful Polaroid range finder camera. What better a way to capture this most momentous instant since I started my album of Giant Things photos in Japan (where else?) in 2009?

Dreamcatcher Jessie has a Facebook page set up, which shows that she's doing more than cultivating a love of ornithology by way of the Polaroid.

She took such a sweet photo the first time that she asked to keep it. So I let her and we agreed to take another, for free.

And I have to say, she really made my day.

*I coloured the duck yellow; Dreamcatcher Jessie uses black and white roll from what I've seen online and in person.

Art Critter: Art Basel Hong Kong, 2013

A Chantown Art Critique Critter: What did I think of Art Basel Hong Kong?

I liked it. And I thought the brand changes externally were minimal, but I can't say the same for those who worked on the fair. Or for the collectors. (That said, I found the old website much more informative...  why do Art Basel hide the Press section of their site?).

Between the first and the third floor, I preferred the third, but that might be because I started there, after CY Leung cut the ribbon to start the show. I might point out that I found his presence somewhat huomourous (he did not give a speech). But I also took it as a sign that the government can only be pleased they have secured Art Basel as a great business venture, since they do relatively little to promote the arts by way of education, support, funds or on a wider societal basis.

Art Fairs are a funny business for the average Joe. You might see famous pieces you'd otherwise need to travel to New York for. Or new works by artists just making the spotlight. But you are also confronted with hundreds of galleries and pieces – that aren't for you. You're not buying. Even at the Affordable Art Fair, the question of purchasing a piece needs careful, careful thought. Those are my savings.

So the enormity of an art fair is about as draining and overwhelming as seeing all of the Metropolitan in New York. You lose energy, will and interest. But fairs, the buzz that goes with them and your friends' Instagram streams make you  feel like you have to see it all.

I think that ArtHK greatly improved over the years, but the works were a bit repetitive. Art Basel Hong Kong seems less so. The breadth of work and galleries presented is better. I even saw a Wayne Thiebaud – one of my favourite painters. (He's 92 and you could eat his work). I've never seen that at the fair before. You can find him at Acquavella somewhere on the third floor – you've got a map.

Onto other things. The vernissage somehow lacked the ambience, crowds and excitement of last year, despite that Kate Moss allegedly attended as did Shwan Yue (I didn't see him!) and Edison Chen. Actually I didn't see that many people that I know either, and usually, everyone is there.

That said, I know a number of artists and galleries that couldn't get enough vernissage tickets, something that I've never heard before. In Hong Kong, we all know someone... so it's not always that hard to get in (for free). Could it be that Art Basel tightened the reigns? It's hard not to feel, from inside chit chat, that this is a money machine. Of course it is – the art world is fickle, money makes it. But this is gossip so I should stop.

Out of about 245 galleries present at Art Basel, about 26 are Hong Kong galleries. While that includes White Cube and Ben Brown (etc), it's still a good percentage, as Fair Director, Magnus Renfrew pointed out. Well done Hong Kong.

Maybe it's just me, but while I enjoyed the fair (especially Thiebaud) I don't feel the lure to go back again over the weekend, I don't feel an attachment and I can't even point you to any pieces that you really must see except for Thiebaud and Shieh (that was at an HK gallery, I forgot which. Sorry, I was tired). I saw at least four pieces clearly based around guns.Yawn.

Instead, if you feel adventurous, go to the old cold storage beneath the Fringe Club and see Wun Dun. Artist Adrian Wong was selected by the Absolut Art Bureau to create an immersive installation for the launch of Art Basel HK – and it's hosted in the coolest spot (sorry: pun). Various performers will appear every night, and the cocktails were created by Wong (which if you know him, is a little concerning). I couldn't take Duck cocktail (with duck fat wash), but maybe you can.

Asia Hotel Art Fair 2013, Mandarin Oriental

An invitation to the Asia Hotel Art Fair (AHAF) press opening is hard to resist – a look at some interesting art and a snoop around the Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong, checking out various room types? Two of my favourite things in one, couldn't get better.

That said, I didn't expect much from this event, not having been before. Over the years I have come to love ARTHK and seen it improve and become more dynamic in terms of what's shown.

But I was wrong, the AHAF was not boring at all. Showcasing a range of galleries including some smaller independent Hong Kong galleries like Above Second and Voxfire, as well as an awesome range of contemporary Korean art and jewellery. I've interviewed quite a few Korean artists now, and they really are a creative bunch.

The AHAF has been held since 2008, in various hotels across Tokyo, Hong Kong and Seoul. While it's supposed to help visitors imagine their work at home, I saw property developers walking around trying to fill their new buildings for Tokyo and a number of VIPs.

But one thing that's undeniable is the price range. Not everything is too expensive for the average person. I nearly fell into buying a piece by Korean artists Park Tea-who. So it's worth visiting if you want to adorn your home – more affordable than ARTHK by far.

Korean artists 

Ahn Jun is a highly popular Korean artist, who takes photos of herself on the edge of buildings, including the one where she lives. Here, you can see the Shun Tak center in Sheung Wan.

Bae Chan-hyo is another popular Korean artist. His self-portraits remind me of Yinka Shonibare's self portraits like Dairy of a Victorian Dandy.

I was pleased to find a bit of Korean whimsy by way of illustration, care of Kim So-hee.

But this is the artist who stole my heart, through our shared love of birds. Park Tea-who represented by Nine Gallery on the 4th floor (room 423).

Korean jewellery was a real treat – inspiring, attractive and well-made. Check out room 612 and look here.

I want a dog too. But the ring by Shin Moonyoung will do and I presume it's less maintenance...

They have ceramics too...

And some interesting things to boot.

Hong Kong artists 

One of the reasons I wanted to go to the fair was to visit Hong Kong galleries like Above Second, who were representing Federico Fiorentini, who I love...

and Voxfire, who recently had an exhibition featuring my friends Danny Kostianos and Shann Larrson, who is featured in the photo below:

To see my tweets from this event, look here.

Switch Off and Listen

I love music. All kinds. The scene in Hong Kong has changed a lot over the last six or so years, but despite it getting generally better, I still take my hat off to those who get up there and perform, no matter how great the crowd. No matter how great the talent. Hey, sometimes I'm one of those people.

Joshua Thomson is a British artist who has come to Hong Kong and set up an Avante-Garde vinyl-only record label, which plans to also publish limited edition themed newspapers. Sounds like my cup of tea.

Follow him @platinummetres

Only in Hong Kong...

Lots of little strange things happen here and while some things may not be strange in other places, I say that context can be everything.

Fong Sui master
Mar 2013, Blessing the building.

Unsustainable efficiency

Feb 2013, courtesy of friend
So Hong Kong.

True efficiency
Jan 2013

Ok, this picture doesn't show it all – but this is an outdoor market stall, leaning against the side of a building. I love that this stall owner has a computer linked up, ready to do her book keeping.

Shopping in HK and my iPhone are one big cliché

There's really nothing more to say.

Hot teenagers and their summer wet dreams 

July 2012
One lovely Saturday morning, I set off for a boat trip with some friends. While waiting for them to pull round from the AMC, two wooden junks rocked up. Since I had a wait, I couldn't help but notice the name of one junk, Wet Dreams.

Ok so is that a Chinglish thing, or a joke? Hard to say.

But it made my day that when the passengers arrived, they were none other than a string of skinny international school-looking teenagers. Complete with a sound system. As it turned out, they'd hired a DJ from Drop, to surprise a friend for his birthday. The other junk in their picture was their dance floor.

WTF can't people in Hong Kong sort and recycle?
July 2012

See my rant in the wonderful Hong Kong zine, Cloak and Dagger.

Seriously expensive yoghurt

June 2012

Ok so yoghurt is never cheap here but this tiny pot of Australian yoghurt, which is the closest western producer of such fine dairy goods, is the most expensive single-serve I've ever seen. It's at least £3.50. It's good, but nothing is that good!

Cardboard café

March 2012

This cha chan teng in Central is entirely clad in cardboard. As the lift doors open, it seems like a shop selling presumably recycled goods. But in fact, there's a cha chan teng serving area neatly hidden behind some cardboad bookshelves.

Visit at 9F, 11 Stanley St, Central

The fight against dropping

Feb 2012

Don't have fun at the beach

Jan 2012

In response to a range of noise complaints on the south side, regarding noise pollution from beach bars, the wise and wonderful Hong Kong government have decided to close a number of cafés and bars on beaches. It seems ironic now, that my complaint before was the lack of a decent deli at any of the beaches.

But it's been the entire winter and more, since the Thai place at Deep Water Bay closed, and there's been building going on. But nothing new has popped in it's place. What a huge, huge waste of space. And I might add, there are no residents adjacent to Deep Water Bay. Duh.

Trash can crime scene

Jan 2012

Life ring – on the 20-somethingth floor
Dec 2011

Weight machine - classifieds
Oct 2011 

Dairy – HK style
Sept 2011
I thought that most Chinese people didn't really 'do' dairy, hence such products being over-priced or local versions being a bit rubbish.

But how this is appetising, especially on a hot day, I just don't know.

Thankfully, this will never be lost.

Bruce who? Roll over Uma, I'm taking care of this one.
June 2011
Could we add more irony?

Tone Down Your Voice
April 2011
It's true – it's loud here.

Beach Digger
April 2011

Health & Safety-free Zone
March 2011
As if climbing that ladder with no-one to stabilise the bottom – and then climb onto the edge with no barrier isn't scary enough, two Banner Ad Implementation Workers (is that PC enough?) then climbed behind the banner to enable the removal. Albeit, behind the ad is probably the safest place for them and provides some kind of Jackie Chan-style stunt-action should they fall, it reaches to the third storey.

That said, this is a fishing country and most fishermen here can't swim.



Naked Lady (what else can I say?)
March 2011
This one came courtesy of a friend. She witnessed the woman depicted stop her car during a busy Monday morning in Central, take her clothes off and stand naked on top of her car.

Ok, so this might happen in other places, but the fact that it happened here is what's so amazing!
Strangely, we couldn't find any news reports about this...

Golden Dragon
September 2010
Checking out some taps on Lockhart Road, Wan Chai.
To be sure, this tap costs HKD $25,800. No kidding.

Fight Club
August 2010

As I said – Chinese people love to fight!


Frozen Coke
August 2010
Getting shaved ice at 12.15am from the local desert shop... eating it on a step nearby... getting in the car to drive to the only frozen coke vending machine in HK.





We followed the instructions, taking a quaff before closing the bottle and tipping it upside down to watch the ice form... it worked pretty well, but I've heard it's hit and miss. Best of all, imagine all the extra chemicals we must be consuming in this latest artificial offering!

Bagpipes
July 2010
Walking through Sai Wan (西環) on a Sunday, to see a Chinese man practicing bagpipes – playing Amazing Grace and in full kilt, no less – in the garage of a kindergarten.